A continuation of the previous collection, ‘Amor Perdido,’ ‘O Que Fica’ delves into the emotional journey of transitioning from the experience of lost love. It intricately explores the initial lightness and sense of relief that can accompany the absence of a relationship, gradually revealing the darker, more sombre reality that emerges when one is left to confront their own thoughts and feelings. This collection brings together the emotional turmoil stemming from the memories that linger, memories that we often find impossible to escape or erase from our minds. This body of work is centred on themes of “discomfort,” “residue,” and the “traces” left by individuals who have entwined themselves into the memories of our lives, leaving us questioning how to move forward. It captures the essence of heartbreak in a tender, almost understated manner, emphasising the slow and haunting “lingers” that follow a significant loss. Rather than presenting heartbreak in an overtly dramatic fashion, Azevedo's approach conveys a soft heaviness, a weight that settles gently into one’s consciousness. At its core, ‘O Que Fica’ invites reflection on the profound feelings of longing that we often only “confront when everything has come to an end”- Rafael Azevedo, 2026. It is an intimate exploration of the emotional scars that remain, revealing the complexities of human connection and the arduous process of accepting what was. Through this collection, Azevedo articulates the subtle yet impactful ways that love, once lost, continues to shape our inner lives.
Through the use of intricate distress textures and silhouettes that evoke a sense of being stretched or unsettled, the collection invites viewers to engage deeply with themes such as “vulnerability,” “exposure,” and “decay.” The emotional state of being revolves around the idea that, once we come to terms with our true selves, our feelings are laid bare, not to others, but to ourselves. Often, we find refuge in denial, avoiding confrontation with our inner truths while remaining trapped in a precarious state of mental unrest. Rafael Azevedo's AW26 collection powerfully exemplifies this vulnerability. Each garment tells a story, suggesting that clothing is not merely fabric, but a repository of experiences, having lived, been touched, and imbued with the memories of its wearers. Some pieces are artistically painted to symbolise the indelible marks we leave on one another, reflecting the notion that every interaction, whether positive or negative, creates a “stain” on our existence. As Rafael Azevedo states, “Clothing has lived, been touched, and carries memory.” This perspective transforms fashion into a canvas for examining our interconnectedness and the lingering impact of our relationships.
Rafael Azevedo’s AW26 collection presented a sophisticated colour palette that elegantly centred around soft beige, deep black, and crisp white, forging a refined yet striking visual aesthetic. Each garment within the collection featured intricate sheer elements that not only heightened the appeal but also evoked a poignant sense of vulnerability, encapsulating the nuances of our emotional landscape. The collection skill fully integrated structured corsetry with elegantly flowy shirts, creating a captivating contrast. The corsets were meticulously tailored to accentuate the waist, providing a sculpted silhouette that celebrated the female form, while the lightweight, ethereal fabrics of the shirts invited fluidity and movement, imparting a sense of grace. This distinct juxtaposition serves as a thoughtful reflection of Rafael Azevedo's personal narrative, as he draws inspiration from his, “childhood home, a physical and emotional landmark. A place now deteriorating yet forever fixed in memory.” The AW26 collection is not just a display of fashion but a heartfelt homage to the complexities of memory and the intricate interplay of strength and vulnerability in both garments and the human experience.
The collection commenced with an evocative dance performance, featuring a model who moved with an unsteady grace that conveyed a deep sense of loss. Her steps were static and unpredictable, creating an atmosphere that resonated with the audience. Draped in a delicate white veil that obscured her face and extended down to her arms, she embodied the theme of hidden emotions. This veil, a profound symbol of vulnerability, was removed just before she began her dance, representing the courageous act of exposing one’s true feelings to the world. As the show progressed to its midpoint, an enchanting duet appeared, showcasing two dancers both wearing black. Their choreography, reminiscent of ballet, was a beautiful fusion of fluidity and grace, as they moved together in a manner that was both free and intimate. The dancers seemed to be two halves of a whole, their movements entwined, highlighting the intricate relationship between light and darkness. This profound connection illustrated the complex nature of human emotions, reminding us that we often experience both joy and sorrow simultaneously, sometimes without even realising it. The performance masterfully captured the essence of this duality, leaving the audience in deep contemplation of their own emotional landscapes.
In the midpoint of the show, we also see the remaining of the models, who dance with a remarkable blend of cohesion and individuality. Their movements are a visual representation of the intricate threads that connect our relationships and the memories we forge throughout our lives. Each dancer embodies a unique story, reflecting the diverse experiences that shape us all. The finale is marked by a striking duet of dancers dressed in sleek black attire, yet this time, their performance radiates a sense of joy and celebration. Unlike the previous segments that evoked a sense of melancholy, this joyful approach signifies a transition towards hope and resilience. Rafael Azevedo eloquently describes the collection as “a symbol of what shapes us, haunts us, and what we carry forward even when we try to leave it behind. What remains is the aftermath.”
By Sonaina Mahmood
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